Mermaid Highlighter, Blush, Compact, Eyeshadow and Fragrance
Anna Sui
Summer 2019
The playful pastel mermaid designs featured in Anna Sui’s summer 2019 cosmetics collection borrowed the mermaid theme from the designer’s spring fashion line. A whimsical mermaid print appeared on bathing suits, skirts and a kimono in both red and black and teal and blue color schemes. The collection marks Sui’s third foray into the mermaid makeup realm: in 2010 the company released blotting sheets featuring illustrated mermaids on the covers, and 2011’s Glittering Mermaid Beach collection consisted of eye makeup sets and pedicure kits in tin containers adorned with pink-tailed mermaids.
Cotton Pads
Coets and Helena Rubinstein
1955
The glamourous mermaid on a box of Coets’ cotton pads and an advertorial in Vogue was most likely the creation of fashion illustrator Betty Brader (1923-1986). Brader was best known for her advertising work for San Francisco department store Joseph Magnin. Her modern, stylish depictions helped establish the store's reputation as the premiere destination for the latest fashions. While there’s no definitive proof that Brader is responsible for the illustration on this particular box, the Annual of Advertising, Editorial, Television Art and Design noted her illustration for a Coets ad she completed the previous year.
Coets was a "premium" cotton pad made by the Personal Products Corporation headquartered in Milltown, NJ. The Coets line appears to have been introduced around the late 1930s and faded away by the early 1980s.
Lady of the Sea Compact
Estée Lauder
Holiday 2017
Estée Lauder teamed up with jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann for a second time in 2017 to create another line of keepsake compacts for the holiday season. As part of the ocean-inspired collection, Kosann’s Lady of the Sea compact features a pattern of concentric aqua-colored tiles and a mermaid figure performing a graceful dive on the top. Her rhinestone tail not only adds a touch of sparkle, but also serves a practical function: the compact is opened by pressing on the fin.
Versace
Spring 2021
Model: Precious Lee
Donatella Versace spoke of her Atlantis-themed spring 2021 collection as “an example of inclusion, of mutual support, and acceptance of what is different from us.” This powerful message was expressed by the bold neon lipstick painted on some of the models by makeup artist Lucia Pieroni. Paired with wet-looking, artfully disheveled hair and the models themselves – some of whom are plus-size or identify as non-binary - the makeup helped define a new mermaid aesthetic that resists traditional beauty standards.
Image from fashionista.com
Mermaid Brush Set
Unicorn Cosmetics
Fall 2017
UK-based indie company Unicorn Cosmetics spent over a year designing intricate and colorful mermaid tail brushes. The artwork was done by American artist Kurtis Rykovich, who created four mermaids to correspond to each brush: Bubbles represents the pink fan brush; Korali, the all-over powder brush; Delphie, the purple blush brush, and LiLu, who represents the bright orange-red and aqua foundation brush. The clamshell-shaped brush stand is a clever way to store and display the set.
For more information and photos, see the Museum’s feature on this collection.
Glow Like A Mermaid Highlighter
Essence
2017
Generously donated by Victoire Wolke
Clamshell Compact
Le Rage
Ca. 1940s
Isla Serena Collection
DuWop
Summer 2011
In a collaboration with Disney, DuWop introduced the Isla Sirena collection in 2011 to coincide with the release of Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides. The movie’s premise involved the infamous Captain Jack Sparrow sailing off to a mermaids’ lair, hence DuWop’s seashell packaging and shimmering, mermaid-inspired colors. The vibrant shades were a sharp contrast to the natural look worn in the film by the lead mermaid Syrena.
Images from pirates.fandom.com, duwopcosmetics.com, and beautyofasite.com
Mermaid Kitten Palette
Winky Lux
Fall 2018
Winky Lux expands the merfolk universe to include felines by incorporating the brand’s signature kittens. The ad copy highlights the fantastical combination of cats and fish and the transformative ability of both mermaids and makeup. “Introducing Mermaid Kitten palette – a perfect blend of two perfect creatures. Nine new under-the-sea shades in shimmer, pearlescent, and matte finishes will transform you into a truly magical creature with one swipe of the brush.” A free “prrr-maid” pin was included for the first several hundred orders of the palette.
Sea Pearls Nail Polish Ad
Cutex
1986
Splash (1984)
Siren (2016)
Killer Mermaid (2014)
Madison and Ryn, the mermaids in the film Splash and Freeform TV’s Siren are for the most part shown bare-faced, with just a hint of eye definition. Their lack of noticeable face makeup when on land points to a more realistic presentation of mermaids in that makeup isn’t used to convey their magical or transformational abilities, but to show them as true creatures of the ocean for whom makeup, at most, is just another human curiosity. Unlike Madison and Ryn, Killer Mermaid’s Scylla switches between classically beautiful mermaid and hideous monster rather than mermaid/human. In mermaid form Scylla displays a mimimal look; however, it is used as a weapon, hiding her true self in order to lure men to their gruesome deaths. All three portrayals uphold conventional beauty standards, especially the notion of “natural” beauty whereby women (and mermaids, by extension) are expected to have clear skin, long flowing hair, sparkling eyes, and a glowing, youthful complexion yet not appear to be wearing much makeup.
Highlighting Powder, Lip Oil, Face and Body Oil and Liquid Highlighter
Rodin Olio Lusso
Summer 2018
Rodin Olio Lusso teamed up with fashion illustrator Donald Robertson to create a whimsical, mermaid-laden underwater fantasy for the packaging of their summer 2018 collection. Robertson, who reigns as the “Warhol of Instagram”, is known for his painterly and colorful style featuring elongated, fashion warrior-esque figures. Previously he worked as Creative Director for Estée Lauder and completed a line of lipsticks for Smashbox in 2015. As a friend of Olio Lusso founder Linda Rodin, Robertson was fascinated by her belief that she had been a mermaid in a previous life. From there the collection was born.
Simone Rocha
Fall 2020
Model: He Cong
Photo: Carlo Scarpato
Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver, Global Makeup Artist for Gucci, was inspired by the invigorating sensation on one’s skin “when you go swimming in the cold ocean, and you put your head all the way under." Lips and cheeks were left bare, but pieces of unevenly shaped foil were added to the eyes for an unexpected, otherworldly burst of metallic sheen. "We wanted to make almost another accessory on the lids," de Kluyver said. "To reference the ways Simone uses jewels and headbands and all that. So we took a flat black foil, a little thicker than you'd think, on some girls. We took a red metallic foil on others, and a pink one, you'd say it's like one of her headbands, but for your eyes." Faran Krentcil, writing for Elle, remarks that the striking effect recalls the beautiful but deadly allure of mermaids described in traditional folktales and myths. “In a sense, Simone Rocha brought the ultimate mermaid makeup—but not the iridescent girl crush of Splash. This was more like the Irish selkie or the Greek siren: a spirit whose only job is to tempt, destroy, and feast on the weakness of men.”
Image from vogue.com
Mermaid Eyes Ad
Max Factor
1962
Mermaid Lipsticks
New Fashion
ca. 1980s
Left to right, top to bottom: Lure Collection Postcard, MAC, summer 2006; Mariah Carey at a Halloween party, 2003; Fantasea Catalog, Sephora, summer 2009; Ad for Siren fragrance by Paris Hilton, 2009; Sara Paxton as mermaid Aquamarine, 2006.
Whether sultry and seductive as in the promotional images for Paris Hilton’s Siren fragrance and MAC’s Lure collection or a more innocent sunkissed glow as in Aquamarine, mermaids in the early 2000s embraced the bronzed aesthetic that became emblematic of the time.
Image of Mariah Carey from popsugar.com
Image of Aquamarine from pinterest.com
Lipstick Holder
Norcrest
Ca. 1950s-60s
Norcrest Fine China was founded in 1958 in Portland, Oregon by Japanese-American businessman Bill Naito, whose father Hide, established a gift shop there in 1921 that sold porcelain wares and other trinkets. Like fellow ceramic company Napco, Norcrest opted to represent mermaids as little girls rather than adult women.
Liquid Lip Color in Trinket
Sugarpill Cosmetics
Winter 2016
Like fellow indie brands KG Beauty, Saucebox and Bitter Lace Beauty, Sugarpill stayed ahead of the mermaid makeup curve by releasing a liquid lip color in limited-edition packaging featuring a mermaid illustration by Australia-based artist Bei Badgirl in early 2016. Both the shade, an opaque cool pink with gold sparkle and the name, Trinket, perfectly aligned with the mermaid theme. Bei is a self-described “cartoon mer-dashian” who focuses on body positivity. Influenced by her Chinese upbringing and the Japanese superflat and kawaii movements, Bei creates ultra-feminine yet assertive women. Her overtly girly figures adhere somewhat to a traditional pin-up aesthetic, but their curvy silhouettes and pointy, weapon-like eyelashes are Bei’s declaration of female strength. The artist’s fascination with mermaids comes from their legendary powers of seduction. “I love mermaids – I could go on about this forever but in short I love that they are fantasies, representations of women, and total femme fatales. I also love their aesthetic – demure, flowing hair, and beautiful curves,” she says. More information on Bei’s work can be found in the Makeup Museum’s feature on the Sugarpill collab.
Makeup Bag
Benefit
Ca. 2012
Benefit’s makeup bag with one of their mannequin mascots dressed as a mermaid and shopping on her “shell phone” wittily shows the human side of the mythical beings.
Badgley Mischka
Spring 2014
The makeup at Badgley Mischka's spring 2014 show perfectly complemented the 1920s-inspired silhouettes. Said designer James Mischka, "We are imagining our woman on her yacht diving into the sea and emerging as a mermaid." To achieve the designer's vision, makeup artist Tom Pecheux kept the complexion bare and applied pale aqua shadow (a mix of MAC Chromacakes in Pure White and Cyan Blue) all over the lid and up to the brow. He then lined the lower waterline with white kohl to make the eyes appear brighter. A touch of black liner on the top lash line and mascara added definition without diminishing the ethereal mermaid effect. Pecheux finished the look with a light coral-pink lip, a blend of Pick Me up Pink and April Flowers from MAC's spring 2014 lip palette.
Images from popsugar.com
La Ligne Océane Ad
Lancôme
1956
Hand Crème and Lip Balm
Tokyo Milk
Summer 2017
For her summer 2017 collection, entitled Neptune and the Mermaid, Tokyo Milk founder Margot Elena ventured into designing fabrics in addition to bath and body products. This new medium allowed her to create what may be her most detailed and inspired patterns. In an interview with Sew4Home, Elena states, “I would say that this collection for me was inspired by the magical possibility of what could happen in the vast world hidden below the surface. I loved the idea of the romance of the secret island and the underwater kingdom of protected mermaids. I see the fish as the guardians of this realm, a realm overseen by the Mermaid Queen…You spend a lot of time with these patterns as they come into being, so the worlds begin to tell quite detailed stories. For me, this collection was an opportunity to tell a more complete narrative, through illustration, than we sometimes get to tell on the small Tokyo Milk bottles. Like my packaging design, I wanted to really create a fantasy that wove in many details – the primary thread being inspired by things, patterns, and eras that feel familiar, yet are juxtaposed in a surreal way that is beautiful and immersive.”
Compacts
Stratton
Ca. 1930s, 1940s and 1980s-90s
Prior to the 1930s, British compact manufacturer Stratton was known by their original trade name of Stratnoid. They produced their first compacts in 1923, and many of them from this early period utilized butterfly wings or foil for an iridescent, glistening effect. One of the motifs included a blonde-haired mermaid playing a lyre among strands of seaweed (bottom left) - a magical creature and her marine habitat made even more enchanting by the use of shiny foil.
Stratton returned to the mermaid theme after their Stratnoid era ended (top). The enamel compact features a delightful undersea tableau in which two mermaids, surrounded by seahorses, shells, and a school of fish, enthusiastically rifle through a sunken treasure chest and try on their newly acquired baubles.
Later, the company released a third mermaid compact (bottom right) featuring the work of British printmaker Janet Milner, who used her woodcutting skills to create the original design. Milner’s simple lines and white-on-black composition of a crowned mermaid playing a guitar impart a rustic, homespun effect.
Bottom images from American Compacts of the Art Deco Era by Howard W. Melton and Michael A. Mont (2020), p. and worthpoint.com
Wet ‘n’ Wild
Mermaid Collection Box
Fall 2017
Behind the scenes photo from Mr. Peabody and the Mermaid
1948
Makeup artist Bud Westmore (left) was charged with the creation of the tail for actress Ann Blyth in Universal’s production of Mr. Peabody and the Mermaid. The task proved to be a laborious and challenging one that required 18 artists working over the course of 3 months, with reported costs ranging from $18,000 (according to Life magazine) to $22,000 (according to the Associated Press in 1954) – well over the original allotments of two weeks and $500. In the end, Westmore made two tails that could be used underwater and one for land. All three were modeled from plaster casts of Blyth and featured individually hand-carved, glittery scales. Westmore firmly established makeup artists’ role in bringing mermaids to cinematic life, overseeing everything from tail design to determining which face makeup would look visually appealing yet withstand hours of filming underwater.
Image from vickielester.com
So Mermaizing Eyeshadow Palette
Klarity Kosmetics
Spring 2021
Black-owned indie brand Klarity Kosmetics developed a mermaid-inspired mix of matte pastel and duochrome shades with all skin tones in mind. The palette sold out within days of its initial release, proving the demand for mermaid hues that are suited for a range of complexions.
Face and Eye Palettes, Makeup Pouches and Moisturizer Packets
Mikimoto
Holiday 2019
Purveyor of fine pearl jewelry Mikimoto enlisted the talent of Paris-based, Belgian-born artist Brecht Evens (b.1986) to illustrate the packaging for their holiday 2019 makeup collection. Entitled “The First Snow of Pearls,” the collection’s concept centers on a fantastical underwater realm inhabited by a group of merry mer-folk. The mishmash of characters and objects may initially seem haphazard and overwhelming, but Evens' messiness is actually entirely intentional. "You don't see the world around you like you see a postcard; it's not organized that way. We're moving, others are moving, and the eye makes constant choices, it decides what to interpret and what to identify. So at any given moment, there's a lot of mess in there and, for me, this kind of mess has to stay in. It's controlled; it's never like I'm creating randomness. It's just that incongruities seem to catch the eye better. They're more natural and they latch onto the eye more realistically. When I use a lot of detail, it's very calculated – I'm making sure it doesn't obstruct anything essential." The images are simultaneously bizarre and perfectly logical: for example, the notion of a sea-dwelling Santa is absurd, but if one exists, it makes sense that his sleigh team would be seahorses instead of reindeer and his bag of presents shaped like a seashell. While the watery world Evens created for Mikimoto is entirely imaginary, the usual rules still apply. As he puts it: "I do think I use visuals that might be dreamlike, or psychedelic, but I don’t think I use dream logic...you have to believe in the world you're creating." The addition of text is also representative of Evens' background in illustrated books and comics.
For additional photos and artist information, see the Museum’s feature on this collection.
Mermaid Palette, Bitter Lace Beauty, fall 2016
Mermaid Life Palette, Saucebox Cosmetics, Spring 2017
Mermaid Palette, KG Beauty, Spring 2017
Indie beauty brands led the mermaid beauty craze in 2016 and 2017. KG Beauty, Saucebox and Bitter Lace Beauty all championed the trend by releasing eyeshadow palettes containing vibrant, shimmery shades inspired by the mythical beings. A portion of the KG palette’s sale proceeds was donated to the Marine Mammal Center in California.
“Must Be Strong” video
Munroe Bergdorf
April 5, 2019
Make-up Artist: Michelle Webb
3D Makeup Artist: Ines Alpha
Trans model and activist Munroe Bergdorf marked International Trans Day of Visibility in 2019 with a video portraying a human-to-mermaid transformation. The film was intended to emphasize the resilience and beauty of trans people in the face of hatred and discrimination. In human form, Bergdorf communicates her desire to transform into a mermaid through vibrant matte green eyeshadow. Crying at the burden of maintaining a façade and the inability to fully express her true form, glittery tears run down her face. After blossoming into a mermaid, Bergdorf sprouts fish-like electric tendrils (and perhaps gills). The eye makeup has shifted from green to pink, indicating that her days of pretending to be her true self are over, and the glitter is now fixed on her eyelids rather than streaks of tears. The makeup underscores the struggle in leaving one’s former self behind as well as the joy of emerging stronger from the transformation process.
Bergdorf discusses the overall meaning of the video. “‘Must be Strong’ is a film to celebrate International Trans Day of Visibility but it is also about the ever-increasing social pressures on us all. From unattainable beauty standards, to the seemly never-ending onslaught of transphobia in the press. This film is about choosing yourself in a time of uncertainty and self-doubt to become the person you always wanted to be, something that I'm sure most people can relate to…Being our authentic selves takes work, strength and determination, especially in a society where gender, racial and sexual oppression still exists. We wanted to make a film that not only visualises the difficulties that trans people may face when it comes to body image such as gender dysphoria, but also to show that these are hurdles that we all face as humans, especially as women and marginalised communities. The mermaid, a mythical creature is a manifestation of fierce beauty and strength. In one way or another we are all mermaids navigating rough seas.”
Catalog
Beautyhabit
Summer 2011
Merfolk Compact
Vogue Vanities
Ca. 1950s
British company Vogue Vanities presents an idyllic undersea habitat with this charming compact that depicts merpeople swimming among sand castles, treasure chests and a variety of sea creatures.
Weeki Wachee Mermaid
2017
Photo: Charlie Engman
For the professional mermaids at Weeki Wachee Springs in Florida, waterproof makeup is a necessity. In a 2017 interview with Vogue, performer Fiona Schwarz (pictured) details her makeup regimen for her underwater routines. She begins with a lightweight CC cream, followed by layers of face powder, bronzer and blush. To create a fish scale effect, sometimes Schwarz uses a fishnet stocking and stencils clear lip balm on her cheekbones, then applies a dusting of iridescent eye shadow on top. Favorite longwearing products include Urban Decay’s Primer Potion and lipsticks by Cover Girl and Maybelline. Schwarz also notes the similarity of the makeup to that used for theatrical performances. “In the water, everything kind of washes you out,” she says. “Just like stage makeup, you want to put more on than you think.”
Image from vogue.com
Deep Sea Magic Ad
Elmo
1941
Be a Mermaid and Make Waves Eyeshadow Palette, Facial Mist and Eyelash Curler
Tarte
Spring 2018
Eager to jump on the mermaid bandwagon, in early 2018 Tarte released a rather uninspired mermaid collection consisting of a body mist, face and body jewels, waterproof mascara, brush set, eyelash curler, and seashell-shaped eyeshadow palette. On the heels of both the unveiling of a non-inclusive shade range for their Shape Tape concealer and an insipid unicorn-themed collection the year prior, the Be A Mermaid lineup, though prettily packaged, read little more than a cash grab. Additionally, as the author of The Anti-Haul Blog noted, the majority of the eyeshadow shades were not suitable for deep skin tones.
The Mermaid (2016)
The Lure (2015)
Several films include instances of mermaids wearing makeup to assimilate to life on land. Garish and poorly applied by lead character Shan in the Chinese film The Mermaid, makeup is used as a comedic plot point, one of her misguided attempts to “pass” as human. The more skillful application of makeup by mermaid sisters Golden and Silver in Poland’s The Lure, points to the ease with which they acclimated to their new jobs as nightclub performers; makeup is used not to disguise their mermaid form but to enhance their on-stage personas. Unlike Shan, the mermaid sisters are comfortable and proficient at adopting human norms, with stage makeup application serving as an example.
Images from tarstarkas.net and imdb.com
Dreamy Mermaid Makeup Set
Trigger Happy Cosmetics
Summer 2017
Fledgling California-based indie brand collaborated with artist Claudette Barjoud for a mermaid-themed eyeshadow palette, body mist and lipgloss set during the height of the mermaid beauty craze. Known professionally as Miss Fluff, Barjoud seamlessly combines a variety of influences in her work including American pinups and classic cartoons, mid-century modern design, rockabilly style, ‘60s mod and tiki genres, and Japanese kawaii culture. All of these can be seen in the imagery on the packaging, which shows a voluptuous mermaid with a glittering pink tail set against a ‘50s era starburst pattern. The aqua and coral color scheme is the same as the eyeshadows themselves, which are fitting shades for any would-be mermaid.
Images from missfluff.com
Lipstick Holders
Napco
Ca. late 1950s-1960s
The Napco Company, or National Potteries Corporation, began production in 1938 in Bedford, Ohio. Their figurines, vases and other ceramic decorative housewares reached the height of their popularity in the late '50s and early '60s. Napco produced at least three different models of mermaid lipstick holders as well as full vanity and bathroom sets containing small shell-shaped pitchers, jewelry trays and soap holders. These particular versions include a “Princess Mermaid”, as evidenced by her golden crown adorned with a pink rhinestone in the center.
Diane Von Furstenburg
Spring 2016
Models: Jing Wen and Aya Jones
Photos:
Makeup artist Pat McGrath created an aquatic-inspired look with shimmery blue and green eyeshadow. Brightly colored flowers in the models’ wavy styled hair added a subtle nod to Furstenburg’s ‘70s roots. Pale peach or neutral lips and cheeks balance the vibrancy and ensured the look wasn’t harsh or overdone.
Splish Splash Mascara Ad
Max Factor
1991
Image from the Vogue archive.
Lipstick holder
Ca. 1950s-60s
The gold finish and sinuous form of the mermaid present a more sophisticated display than the child-like mermaid figurines on the ceramic lipstick holders produced by Norcrest and Napco.
During the 2016-2017 frenzy for mermaid-themed beauty items, some companies eschewed literal mermaid designs in their packaging. The products themselves, however, delivered the defining characteristics of the trend: iridescence, aquatic hues and plenty of sparkle.
1. Milk Mermaid Parade Eye Pigment
2. Revolution Mermaids Forever Eyeshadow Palette
3. Stila Sea Siren Liquid Eyeshadow
4. NCLA I’m Really a Mermaid Nail Polish
5. Butter London Glazen Eye Gloss in Mermaid
6. Chantecaille Mermaid Eye Color in Lagoon
7. Ciate Mermaid Glow Highlighter
8. Jouer Mermaid Eyeshadows
She-Shells Compact
Revlon
1965
The ad for Revlon’s “She-Shells” compacts portrays the three items – each with a cartoonish turtle, mermaid or octopus motif on the outer case – as highly collectible. It also represents the beginning of the cosmetics industry’s expansion into colorful plastic compacts in addition to metal.
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Spring 2008 Couture
Models: Coco Rocha, Bobbi Wiens, Chanel Iman and Maria Kashleva
Makeup artist Stéphane Marais created a suite of appropriately ethereal styles for Gaultier’s spring 2008 mermaid-and sailor-themed couture show. Glossy lips in seashell pink or coral acted as a subtle counterpoint to the seafoam eyeshadow and greyish lip color on one of the models. Reminiscent of iridescent water droplets, a generous dusting of glitter confetti was reserved for the final ensemble, a showstopping combination of a seashell-adorned bodysuit and gold sequined skirt. Whether viewed as individual looks or taken in whole, the makeup radiated an otherworldly beauty.
Images from livingly.com, mernetwork.com and vogue.com
Compact
Lady Vanity/Warner Bros.
Ca. 1940s
Annette Honeywell (c. 1904-1959) was an extraordinarily accomplished American artist and designer across a multitude of mediums. Early in her career Honeywell worked in advertising for the likes of food companies such as Sunkist and Diamond Walnut, but by 1950 she was doing interior design for both major department stores and private homes as well as creating textile and china patterns. Honeywell also worked with Warner Brothers as a cartoon artist in the mid-1940s. According to the Face to Face Compacts blog, Honeywell produced a series of 12 compacts under the name “Lady Vanity” for Warner Brothers. The themes were based on song titles and showcased Honeywell’s skill at cartoon illustration, with one of the 12 depicting a girlish mermaid holding a shell to her ear and petting a long-lashed seahorse. It’s unclear what song the mermaid image refers to or why it was included in the 12 designs, but it did appear on a set of coasters, demonstrating Honeywell’s proficiency at creating attractive and versatile surface patterns.
Compact image from Overview of American Compacts and Vanity Cases by Laura Mueller, 2008, p. 75
Coaster image from etsy.com
Calendar
Stila
2003
Stila provided their employees with an illustrated calendar that featured one of their signature girls visiting a different city each month. For the month of June, Stila transformed one of the girls into a mermaid. It is believed that the mermaid illustration was created for the opening of Stila counters in Copenhagen, home of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Mermaid.
GHD Hair Dryer Ad
2012
Resorts World Las Vegas Ad
Spring 2021
Pop singer Katy Perry donned a mermaid costume for a GHD hair tools ad in 2012, sporting a basic wash of aqua shadow over the entire lid paired with a bright pink lip. Nearly a decade later, makeup artist Michael Anthony elevated Perry’s mermaid game with a dazzling array of colorful eyeshadows. Their high-gloss, prismatic finish appears three-dimensional and complements the purple lipstick’s vinyl-like texture. Equal parts playful and sultry, the 2021 version of Perry’s mermaid makeup reinforces the multi-faceted nature of the mythical creatures.
Images from hayleyhall.uk and @manthony783
Meera Beauty Co.
Melancholia Eyeshadow Palette and Abyss Pressed Glitter Palette
Holiday 2021
Instead of embodying the usual festive spirit, BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ owned indie brand Meera Beauty Co. opted to acknowledge the “holiday blues” with their Melancholia and Abyss palettes. “[The] overall theme is dedicated to the toll the holidays can take on the mental health of so many people. Melancholia was inspired by our owner, HP's, own struggles with anxiety and his years-long journey to prioritize his mental health. The truth is that many of us struggle with finding ‘Joy’ and ‘Cheer’ during the holidays, but we convince ourselves that we are the only ones suffering and that sharing our struggles would just put a damper on the festivities that everyone around us is so clearly enjoying. So, we conceal our pain and we sink further into our own psyches. We wanted the artwork for this palette to portray the vulnerability of this journey and show how what we are feeling on the inside is not always how we appear to be on the outside.” The images on the front and back covers of the eyeshadow palette show mermaids and sirens to symbolize both the allure and terror of the human psyche’s inner workings.
The front side depicts a traditionally attractive and friendly mermaid offering help to a struggling man, who is lost and drowning under the ocean’s surface. From the brand’s website: “You see an individual floating deep under the ocean's surface, ’sinking’ into his own thoughts. It appears that he is alone as sirens observe him from the distance. You also see a single, beautiful mermaid has revealed herself in front of him and is seemingly reaching her arms out to help him. This scene is representative of the feeling of ‘comfort’ that our intrusive thoughts can often bring us in their unwavering attempts to penetrate our minds. We experience these incredible triggers so often and for so long that they eventually do become familiar and comfortable thoughts.”
The back cover, however, reveals that the mermaid is actually a monstrous siren inhaling the man’s soul. Instead of a beautiful creature offering support, the siren shows her true form, illustrating the danger of succumbing to isolation instead of getting help. “Sometimes you feel like you are drowning and don’t have the energy to fight, because you are only human and cannot be strong all of the time. And that is often when our demons come to collect…[The siren] isn't actually helping the lost man, she is sucking his soul. The painful and scared look on his face says it all. Many of us who struggle with our mental health find ourselves preferring to be alone when we are triggered or overstimulated. We convince ourselves that no one around us can help us and we turn to our own dark thoughts for comfort. We think we are ‘processing,’ but if we are not careful, we just may end up spiraling further into our own MELANCHOLIA!”
Nevertheless, the palette description concludes on a positive and encouraging note, assuring the customer that it is totally acceptable to grapple with one’s mental health and not have perfect coping mechanisms. “These truths aren't always easy to confront or share with those around us. We are often told to just be ‘strong’ and not let our demons WIN. However, the notion that we just have to be stronger in hard times completely dismisses that many of us are in fact trying our hardest and sometimes the intrusive thoughts are just stronger. And you know what? That is OKAY! So if you are reading this and you are also struggling, just know that we see you and as long as you are trying your best, that is all that matters!” By creating a unique collection both in its utilization of mermaids as stand-ins for one’s inner demons, as well as general concept – most holiday collections emphasize joy – Meera Beauty Co. exhibits a rare perspective that sets it apart from many other beauty brands, mainstream or indie. While the shades and glitter textures may be similar to other mermaid-themed palettes, the overall tone and artwork offer a remarkably different take from the usual mermaid makeup narrative.
Scene from Hook
1991
Coney Island Mermaid Parade
2015-2019
Perhaps there is no better demonstration of the spirit of freedom and creativity embodied by mermaid makeup than at New York’s annual Coney Island Mermaid Parade. Part art celebration, part cosplay, the parade is billed as an event where “artistic New Yorkers find self-expression in public,” with attendees sporting looks that range from natural to outrageous and everything in between.
Photo credits:
1 - Robert Ullmann
2, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14 - Keith Perks
3 - Yana Paskova
4 - Glenn Belverio
8 - First Gen Fashion
13 - Eva Szombat
Mermaid Highlighter, Blush, Compact, Eyeshadow and Fragrance
Anna Sui
Summer 2019
The playful pastel mermaid designs featured in Anna Sui’s summer 2019 cosmetics collection borrowed the mermaid theme from the designer’s spring fashion line. A whimsical mermaid print appeared on bathing suits, skirts and a kimono in both red and black and teal and blue color schemes. The collection marks Sui’s third foray into the mermaid makeup realm: in 2010 the company released blotting sheets featuring illustrated mermaids on the covers, and 2011’s Glittering Mermaid Beach collection consisted of eye makeup sets and pedicure kits in tin containers adorned with pink-tailed mermaids.
Cotton Pads
Coets and Helena Rubinstein
1955
The glamourous mermaid on a box of Coets’ cotton pads and an advertorial in Vogue was most likely the creation of fashion illustrator Betty Brader (1923-1986). Brader was best known for her advertising work for San Francisco department store Joseph Magnin. Her modern, stylish depictions helped establish the store's reputation as the premiere destination for the latest fashions. While there’s no definitive proof that Brader is responsible for the illustration on this particular box, the Annual of Advertising, Editorial, Television Art and Design noted her illustration for a Coets ad she completed the previous year.
Coets was a "premium" cotton pad made by the Personal Products Corporation headquartered in Milltown, NJ. The Coets line appears to have been introduced around the late 1930s and faded away by the early 1980s.
Lady of the Sea Compact
Estée Lauder
Holiday 2017
Estée Lauder teamed up with jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann for a second time in 2017 to create another line of keepsake compacts for the holiday season. As part of the ocean-inspired collection, Kosann’s Lady of the Sea compact features a pattern of concentric aqua-colored tiles and a mermaid figure performing a graceful dive on the top. Her rhinestone tail not only adds a touch of sparkle, but also serves a practical function: the compact is opened by pressing on the fin.
Versace
Spring 2021
Model: Precious Lee
Donatella Versace spoke of her Atlantis-themed spring 2021 collection as “an example of inclusion, of mutual support, and acceptance of what is different from us.” This powerful message was expressed by the bold neon lipstick painted on some of the models by makeup artist Lucia Pieroni. Paired with wet-looking, artfully disheveled hair and the models themselves – some of whom are plus-size or identify as non-binary - the makeup helped define a new mermaid aesthetic that resists traditional beauty standards.
Image from fashionista.com
Mermaid Brush Set
Unicorn Cosmetics
Fall 2017
UK-based indie company Unicorn Cosmetics spent over a year designing intricate and colorful mermaid tail brushes. The artwork was done by American artist Kurtis Rykovich, who created four mermaids to correspond to each brush: Bubbles represents the pink fan brush; Korali, the all-over powder brush; Delphie, the purple blush brush, and LiLu, who represents the bright orange-red and aqua foundation brush. The clamshell-shaped brush stand is a clever way to store and display the set.
For more information and photos, see the Museum’s feature on this collection.
Glow Like A Mermaid Highlighter
Essence
2017
Generously donated by Victoire Wolke
Clamshell Compact
Le Rage
Ca. 1940s
Isla Serena Collection
DuWop
Summer 2011
In a collaboration with Disney, DuWop introduced the Isla Sirena collection in 2011 to coincide with the release of Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides. The movie’s premise involved the infamous Captain Jack Sparrow sailing off to a mermaids’ lair, hence DuWop’s seashell packaging and shimmering, mermaid-inspired colors. The vibrant shades were a sharp contrast to the natural look worn in the film by the lead mermaid Syrena.
Images from pirates.fandom.com, duwopcosmetics.com, and beautyofasite.com
Mermaid Kitten Palette
Winky Lux
Fall 2018
Winky Lux expands the merfolk universe to include felines by incorporating the brand’s signature kittens. The ad copy highlights the fantastical combination of cats and fish and the transformative ability of both mermaids and makeup. “Introducing Mermaid Kitten palette – a perfect blend of two perfect creatures. Nine new under-the-sea shades in shimmer, pearlescent, and matte finishes will transform you into a truly magical creature with one swipe of the brush.” A free “prrr-maid” pin was included for the first several hundred orders of the palette.
Sea Pearls Nail Polish Ad
Cutex
1986
Splash (1984)
Siren (2016)
Killer Mermaid (2014)
Madison and Ryn, the mermaids in the film Splash and Freeform TV’s Siren are for the most part shown bare-faced, with just a hint of eye definition. Their lack of noticeable face makeup when on land points to a more realistic presentation of mermaids in that makeup isn’t used to convey their magical or transformational abilities, but to show them as true creatures of the ocean for whom makeup, at most, is just another human curiosity. Unlike Madison and Ryn, Killer Mermaid’s Scylla switches between classically beautiful mermaid and hideous monster rather than mermaid/human. In mermaid form Scylla displays a mimimal look; however, it is used as a weapon, hiding her true self in order to lure men to their gruesome deaths. All three portrayals uphold conventional beauty standards, especially the notion of “natural” beauty whereby women (and mermaids, by extension) are expected to have clear skin, long flowing hair, sparkling eyes, and a glowing, youthful complexion yet not appear to be wearing much makeup.
Highlighting Powder, Lip Oil, Face and Body Oil and Liquid Highlighter
Rodin Olio Lusso
Summer 2018
Rodin Olio Lusso teamed up with fashion illustrator Donald Robertson to create a whimsical, mermaid-laden underwater fantasy for the packaging of their summer 2018 collection. Robertson, who reigns as the “Warhol of Instagram”, is known for his painterly and colorful style featuring elongated, fashion warrior-esque figures. Previously he worked as Creative Director for Estée Lauder and completed a line of lipsticks for Smashbox in 2015. As a friend of Olio Lusso founder Linda Rodin, Robertson was fascinated by her belief that she had been a mermaid in a previous life. From there the collection was born.
Simone Rocha
Fall 2020
Model: He Cong
Photo: Carlo Scarpato
Makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver, Global Makeup Artist for Gucci, was inspired by the invigorating sensation on one’s skin “when you go swimming in the cold ocean, and you put your head all the way under." Lips and cheeks were left bare, but pieces of unevenly shaped foil were added to the eyes for an unexpected, otherworldly burst of metallic sheen. "We wanted to make almost another accessory on the lids," de Kluyver said. "To reference the ways Simone uses jewels and headbands and all that. So we took a flat black foil, a little thicker than you'd think, on some girls. We took a red metallic foil on others, and a pink one, you'd say it's like one of her headbands, but for your eyes." Faran Krentcil, writing for Elle, remarks that the striking effect recalls the beautiful but deadly allure of mermaids described in traditional folktales and myths. “In a sense, Simone Rocha brought the ultimate mermaid makeup—but not the iridescent girl crush of Splash. This was more like the Irish selkie or the Greek siren: a spirit whose only job is to tempt, destroy, and feast on the weakness of men.”
Image from vogue.com
Mermaid Eyes Ad
Max Factor
1962
Mermaid Lipsticks
New Fashion
ca. 1980s
Left to right, top to bottom: Lure Collection Postcard, MAC, summer 2006; Mariah Carey at a Halloween party, 2003; Fantasea Catalog, Sephora, summer 2009; Ad for Siren fragrance by Paris Hilton, 2009; Sara Paxton as mermaid Aquamarine, 2006.
Whether sultry and seductive as in the promotional images for Paris Hilton’s Siren fragrance and MAC’s Lure collection or a more innocent sunkissed glow as in Aquamarine, mermaids in the early 2000s embraced the bronzed aesthetic that became emblematic of the time.
Image of Mariah Carey from popsugar.com
Image of Aquamarine from pinterest.com
Lipstick Holder
Norcrest
Ca. 1950s-60s
Norcrest Fine China was founded in 1958 in Portland, Oregon by Japanese-American businessman Bill Naito, whose father Hide, established a gift shop there in 1921 that sold porcelain wares and other trinkets. Like fellow ceramic company Napco, Norcrest opted to represent mermaids as little girls rather than adult women.
Liquid Lip Color in Trinket
Sugarpill Cosmetics
Winter 2016
Like fellow indie brands KG Beauty, Saucebox and Bitter Lace Beauty, Sugarpill stayed ahead of the mermaid makeup curve by releasing a liquid lip color in limited-edition packaging featuring a mermaid illustration by Australia-based artist Bei Badgirl in early 2016. Both the shade, an opaque cool pink with gold sparkle and the name, Trinket, perfectly aligned with the mermaid theme. Bei is a self-described “cartoon mer-dashian” who focuses on body positivity. Influenced by her Chinese upbringing and the Japanese superflat and kawaii movements, Bei creates ultra-feminine yet assertive women. Her overtly girly figures adhere somewhat to a traditional pin-up aesthetic, but their curvy silhouettes and pointy, weapon-like eyelashes are Bei’s declaration of female strength. The artist’s fascination with mermaids comes from their legendary powers of seduction. “I love mermaids – I could go on about this forever but in short I love that they are fantasies, representations of women, and total femme fatales. I also love their aesthetic – demure, flowing hair, and beautiful curves,” she says. More information on Bei’s work can be found in the Makeup Museum’s feature on the Sugarpill collab.
Makeup Bag
Benefit
Ca. 2012
Benefit’s makeup bag with one of their mannequin mascots dressed as a mermaid and shopping on her “shell phone” wittily shows the human side of the mythical beings.
Badgley Mischka
Spring 2014
The makeup at Badgley Mischka's spring 2014 show perfectly complemented the 1920s-inspired silhouettes. Said designer James Mischka, "We are imagining our woman on her yacht diving into the sea and emerging as a mermaid." To achieve the designer's vision, makeup artist Tom Pecheux kept the complexion bare and applied pale aqua shadow (a mix of MAC Chromacakes in Pure White and Cyan Blue) all over the lid and up to the brow. He then lined the lower waterline with white kohl to make the eyes appear brighter. A touch of black liner on the top lash line and mascara added definition without diminishing the ethereal mermaid effect. Pecheux finished the look with a light coral-pink lip, a blend of Pick Me up Pink and April Flowers from MAC's spring 2014 lip palette.
Images from popsugar.com
La Ligne Océane Ad
Lancôme
1956
Hand Crème and Lip Balm
Tokyo Milk
Summer 2017
For her summer 2017 collection, entitled Neptune and the Mermaid, Tokyo Milk founder Margot Elena ventured into designing fabrics in addition to bath and body products. This new medium allowed her to create what may be her most detailed and inspired patterns. In an interview with Sew4Home, Elena states, “I would say that this collection for me was inspired by the magical possibility of what could happen in the vast world hidden below the surface. I loved the idea of the romance of the secret island and the underwater kingdom of protected mermaids. I see the fish as the guardians of this realm, a realm overseen by the Mermaid Queen…You spend a lot of time with these patterns as they come into being, so the worlds begin to tell quite detailed stories. For me, this collection was an opportunity to tell a more complete narrative, through illustration, than we sometimes get to tell on the small Tokyo Milk bottles. Like my packaging design, I wanted to really create a fantasy that wove in many details – the primary thread being inspired by things, patterns, and eras that feel familiar, yet are juxtaposed in a surreal way that is beautiful and immersive.”
Compacts
Stratton
Ca. 1930s, 1940s and 1980s-90s
Prior to the 1930s, British compact manufacturer Stratton was known by their original trade name of Stratnoid. They produced their first compacts in 1923, and many of them from this early period utilized butterfly wings or foil for an iridescent, glistening effect. One of the motifs included a blonde-haired mermaid playing a lyre among strands of seaweed (bottom left) - a magical creature and her marine habitat made even more enchanting by the use of shiny foil.
Stratton returned to the mermaid theme after their Stratnoid era ended (top). The enamel compact features a delightful undersea tableau in which two mermaids, surrounded by seahorses, shells, and a school of fish, enthusiastically rifle through a sunken treasure chest and try on their newly acquired baubles.
Later, the company released a third mermaid compact (bottom right) featuring the work of British printmaker Janet Milner, who used her woodcutting skills to create the original design. Milner’s simple lines and white-on-black composition of a crowned mermaid playing a guitar impart a rustic, homespun effect.
Bottom images from American Compacts of the Art Deco Era by Howard W. Melton and Michael A. Mont (2020), p. and worthpoint.com
Wet ‘n’ Wild
Mermaid Collection Box
Fall 2017
Behind the scenes photo from Mr. Peabody and the Mermaid
1948
Makeup artist Bud Westmore (left) was charged with the creation of the tail for actress Ann Blyth in Universal’s production of Mr. Peabody and the Mermaid. The task proved to be a laborious and challenging one that required 18 artists working over the course of 3 months, with reported costs ranging from $18,000 (according to Life magazine) to $22,000 (according to the Associated Press in 1954) – well over the original allotments of two weeks and $500. In the end, Westmore made two tails that could be used underwater and one for land. All three were modeled from plaster casts of Blyth and featured individually hand-carved, glittery scales. Westmore firmly established makeup artists’ role in bringing mermaids to cinematic life, overseeing everything from tail design to determining which face makeup would look visually appealing yet withstand hours of filming underwater.
Image from vickielester.com
So Mermaizing Eyeshadow Palette
Klarity Kosmetics
Spring 2021
Black-owned indie brand Klarity Kosmetics developed a mermaid-inspired mix of matte pastel and duochrome shades with all skin tones in mind. The palette sold out within days of its initial release, proving the demand for mermaid hues that are suited for a range of complexions.
Face and Eye Palettes, Makeup Pouches and Moisturizer Packets
Mikimoto
Holiday 2019
Purveyor of fine pearl jewelry Mikimoto enlisted the talent of Paris-based, Belgian-born artist Brecht Evens (b.1986) to illustrate the packaging for their holiday 2019 makeup collection. Entitled “The First Snow of Pearls,” the collection’s concept centers on a fantastical underwater realm inhabited by a group of merry mer-folk. The mishmash of characters and objects may initially seem haphazard and overwhelming, but Evens' messiness is actually entirely intentional. "You don't see the world around you like you see a postcard; it's not organized that way. We're moving, others are moving, and the eye makes constant choices, it decides what to interpret and what to identify. So at any given moment, there's a lot of mess in there and, for me, this kind of mess has to stay in. It's controlled; it's never like I'm creating randomness. It's just that incongruities seem to catch the eye better. They're more natural and they latch onto the eye more realistically. When I use a lot of detail, it's very calculated – I'm making sure it doesn't obstruct anything essential." The images are simultaneously bizarre and perfectly logical: for example, the notion of a sea-dwelling Santa is absurd, but if one exists, it makes sense that his sleigh team would be seahorses instead of reindeer and his bag of presents shaped like a seashell. While the watery world Evens created for Mikimoto is entirely imaginary, the usual rules still apply. As he puts it: "I do think I use visuals that might be dreamlike, or psychedelic, but I don’t think I use dream logic...you have to believe in the world you're creating." The addition of text is also representative of Evens' background in illustrated books and comics.
For additional photos and artist information, see the Museum’s feature on this collection.
Mermaid Palette, Bitter Lace Beauty, fall 2016
Mermaid Life Palette, Saucebox Cosmetics, Spring 2017
Mermaid Palette, KG Beauty, Spring 2017
Indie beauty brands led the mermaid beauty craze in 2016 and 2017. KG Beauty, Saucebox and Bitter Lace Beauty all championed the trend by releasing eyeshadow palettes containing vibrant, shimmery shades inspired by the mythical beings. A portion of the KG palette’s sale proceeds was donated to the Marine Mammal Center in California.
“Must Be Strong” video
Munroe Bergdorf
April 5, 2019
Make-up Artist: Michelle Webb
3D Makeup Artist: Ines Alpha
Trans model and activist Munroe Bergdorf marked International Trans Day of Visibility in 2019 with a video portraying a human-to-mermaid transformation. The film was intended to emphasize the resilience and beauty of trans people in the face of hatred and discrimination. In human form, Bergdorf communicates her desire to transform into a mermaid through vibrant matte green eyeshadow. Crying at the burden of maintaining a façade and the inability to fully express her true form, glittery tears run down her face. After blossoming into a mermaid, Bergdorf sprouts fish-like electric tendrils (and perhaps gills). The eye makeup has shifted from green to pink, indicating that her days of pretending to be her true self are over, and the glitter is now fixed on her eyelids rather than streaks of tears. The makeup underscores the struggle in leaving one’s former self behind as well as the joy of emerging stronger from the transformation process.
Bergdorf discusses the overall meaning of the video. “‘Must be Strong’ is a film to celebrate International Trans Day of Visibility but it is also about the ever-increasing social pressures on us all. From unattainable beauty standards, to the seemly never-ending onslaught of transphobia in the press. This film is about choosing yourself in a time of uncertainty and self-doubt to become the person you always wanted to be, something that I'm sure most people can relate to…Being our authentic selves takes work, strength and determination, especially in a society where gender, racial and sexual oppression still exists. We wanted to make a film that not only visualises the difficulties that trans people may face when it comes to body image such as gender dysphoria, but also to show that these are hurdles that we all face as humans, especially as women and marginalised communities. The mermaid, a mythical creature is a manifestation of fierce beauty and strength. In one way or another we are all mermaids navigating rough seas.”
Catalog
Beautyhabit
Summer 2011
Merfolk Compact
Vogue Vanities
Ca. 1950s
British company Vogue Vanities presents an idyllic undersea habitat with this charming compact that depicts merpeople swimming among sand castles, treasure chests and a variety of sea creatures.
Weeki Wachee Mermaid
2017
Photo: Charlie Engman
For the professional mermaids at Weeki Wachee Springs in Florida, waterproof makeup is a necessity. In a 2017 interview with Vogue, performer Fiona Schwarz (pictured) details her makeup regimen for her underwater routines. She begins with a lightweight CC cream, followed by layers of face powder, bronzer and blush. To create a fish scale effect, sometimes Schwarz uses a fishnet stocking and stencils clear lip balm on her cheekbones, then applies a dusting of iridescent eye shadow on top. Favorite longwearing products include Urban Decay’s Primer Potion and lipsticks by Cover Girl and Maybelline. Schwarz also notes the similarity of the makeup to that used for theatrical performances. “In the water, everything kind of washes you out,” she says. “Just like stage makeup, you want to put more on than you think.”
Image from vogue.com
Deep Sea Magic Ad
Elmo
1941
Be a Mermaid and Make Waves Eyeshadow Palette, Facial Mist and Eyelash Curler
Tarte
Spring 2018
Eager to jump on the mermaid bandwagon, in early 2018 Tarte released a rather uninspired mermaid collection consisting of a body mist, face and body jewels, waterproof mascara, brush set, eyelash curler, and seashell-shaped eyeshadow palette. On the heels of both the unveiling of a non-inclusive shade range for their Shape Tape concealer and an insipid unicorn-themed collection the year prior, the Be A Mermaid lineup, though prettily packaged, read little more than a cash grab. Additionally, as the author of The Anti-Haul Blog noted, the majority of the eyeshadow shades were not suitable for deep skin tones.
The Mermaid (2016)
The Lure (2015)
Several films include instances of mermaids wearing makeup to assimilate to life on land. Garish and poorly applied by lead character Shan in the Chinese film The Mermaid, makeup is used as a comedic plot point, one of her misguided attempts to “pass” as human. The more skillful application of makeup by mermaid sisters Golden and Silver in Poland’s The Lure, points to the ease with which they acclimated to their new jobs as nightclub performers; makeup is used not to disguise their mermaid form but to enhance their on-stage personas. Unlike Shan, the mermaid sisters are comfortable and proficient at adopting human norms, with stage makeup application serving as an example.
Images from tarstarkas.net and imdb.com
Dreamy Mermaid Makeup Set
Trigger Happy Cosmetics
Summer 2017
Fledgling California-based indie brand collaborated with artist Claudette Barjoud for a mermaid-themed eyeshadow palette, body mist and lipgloss set during the height of the mermaid beauty craze. Known professionally as Miss Fluff, Barjoud seamlessly combines a variety of influences in her work including American pinups and classic cartoons, mid-century modern design, rockabilly style, ‘60s mod and tiki genres, and Japanese kawaii culture. All of these can be seen in the imagery on the packaging, which shows a voluptuous mermaid with a glittering pink tail set against a ‘50s era starburst pattern. The aqua and coral color scheme is the same as the eyeshadows themselves, which are fitting shades for any would-be mermaid.
Images from missfluff.com
Lipstick Holders
Napco
Ca. late 1950s-1960s
The Napco Company, or National Potteries Corporation, began production in 1938 in Bedford, Ohio. Their figurines, vases and other ceramic decorative housewares reached the height of their popularity in the late '50s and early '60s. Napco produced at least three different models of mermaid lipstick holders as well as full vanity and bathroom sets containing small shell-shaped pitchers, jewelry trays and soap holders. These particular versions include a “Princess Mermaid”, as evidenced by her golden crown adorned with a pink rhinestone in the center.
Diane Von Furstenburg
Spring 2016
Models: Jing Wen and Aya Jones
Photos:
Makeup artist Pat McGrath created an aquatic-inspired look with shimmery blue and green eyeshadow. Brightly colored flowers in the models’ wavy styled hair added a subtle nod to Furstenburg’s ‘70s roots. Pale peach or neutral lips and cheeks balance the vibrancy and ensured the look wasn’t harsh or overdone.
Splish Splash Mascara Ad
Max Factor
1991
Image from the Vogue archive.
Lipstick holder
Ca. 1950s-60s
The gold finish and sinuous form of the mermaid present a more sophisticated display than the child-like mermaid figurines on the ceramic lipstick holders produced by Norcrest and Napco.
During the 2016-2017 frenzy for mermaid-themed beauty items, some companies eschewed literal mermaid designs in their packaging. The products themselves, however, delivered the defining characteristics of the trend: iridescence, aquatic hues and plenty of sparkle.
1. Milk Mermaid Parade Eye Pigment
2. Revolution Mermaids Forever Eyeshadow Palette
3. Stila Sea Siren Liquid Eyeshadow
4. NCLA I’m Really a Mermaid Nail Polish
5. Butter London Glazen Eye Gloss in Mermaid
6. Chantecaille Mermaid Eye Color in Lagoon
7. Ciate Mermaid Glow Highlighter
8. Jouer Mermaid Eyeshadows
She-Shells Compact
Revlon
1965
The ad for Revlon’s “She-Shells” compacts portrays the three items – each with a cartoonish turtle, mermaid or octopus motif on the outer case – as highly collectible. It also represents the beginning of the cosmetics industry’s expansion into colorful plastic compacts in addition to metal.
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Spring 2008 Couture
Models: Coco Rocha, Bobbi Wiens, Chanel Iman and Maria Kashleva
Makeup artist Stéphane Marais created a suite of appropriately ethereal styles for Gaultier’s spring 2008 mermaid-and sailor-themed couture show. Glossy lips in seashell pink or coral acted as a subtle counterpoint to the seafoam eyeshadow and greyish lip color on one of the models. Reminiscent of iridescent water droplets, a generous dusting of glitter confetti was reserved for the final ensemble, a showstopping combination of a seashell-adorned bodysuit and gold sequined skirt. Whether viewed as individual looks or taken in whole, the makeup radiated an otherworldly beauty.
Images from livingly.com, mernetwork.com and vogue.com
Compact
Lady Vanity/Warner Bros.
Ca. 1940s
Annette Honeywell (c. 1904-1959) was an extraordinarily accomplished American artist and designer across a multitude of mediums. Early in her career Honeywell worked in advertising for the likes of food companies such as Sunkist and Diamond Walnut, but by 1950 she was doing interior design for both major department stores and private homes as well as creating textile and china patterns. Honeywell also worked with Warner Brothers as a cartoon artist in the mid-1940s. According to the Face to Face Compacts blog, Honeywell produced a series of 12 compacts under the name “Lady Vanity” for Warner Brothers. The themes were based on song titles and showcased Honeywell’s skill at cartoon illustration, with one of the 12 depicting a girlish mermaid holding a shell to her ear and petting a long-lashed seahorse. It’s unclear what song the mermaid image refers to or why it was included in the 12 designs, but it did appear on a set of coasters, demonstrating Honeywell’s proficiency at creating attractive and versatile surface patterns.
Compact image from Overview of American Compacts and Vanity Cases by Laura Mueller, 2008, p. 75
Coaster image from etsy.com
Calendar
Stila
2003
Stila provided their employees with an illustrated calendar that featured one of their signature girls visiting a different city each month. For the month of June, Stila transformed one of the girls into a mermaid. It is believed that the mermaid illustration was created for the opening of Stila counters in Copenhagen, home of Hans Christian Andersen’s The Little Mermaid.
GHD Hair Dryer Ad
2012
Resorts World Las Vegas Ad
Spring 2021
Pop singer Katy Perry donned a mermaid costume for a GHD hair tools ad in 2012, sporting a basic wash of aqua shadow over the entire lid paired with a bright pink lip. Nearly a decade later, makeup artist Michael Anthony elevated Perry’s mermaid game with a dazzling array of colorful eyeshadows. Their high-gloss, prismatic finish appears three-dimensional and complements the purple lipstick’s vinyl-like texture. Equal parts playful and sultry, the 2021 version of Perry’s mermaid makeup reinforces the multi-faceted nature of the mythical creatures.
Images from hayleyhall.uk and @manthony783
Meera Beauty Co.
Melancholia Eyeshadow Palette and Abyss Pressed Glitter Palette
Holiday 2021
Instead of embodying the usual festive spirit, BIPOC and LGBTQIA+ owned indie brand Meera Beauty Co. opted to acknowledge the “holiday blues” with their Melancholia and Abyss palettes. “[The] overall theme is dedicated to the toll the holidays can take on the mental health of so many people. Melancholia was inspired by our owner, HP's, own struggles with anxiety and his years-long journey to prioritize his mental health. The truth is that many of us struggle with finding ‘Joy’ and ‘Cheer’ during the holidays, but we convince ourselves that we are the only ones suffering and that sharing our struggles would just put a damper on the festivities that everyone around us is so clearly enjoying. So, we conceal our pain and we sink further into our own psyches. We wanted the artwork for this palette to portray the vulnerability of this journey and show how what we are feeling on the inside is not always how we appear to be on the outside.” The images on the front and back covers of the eyeshadow palette show mermaids and sirens to symbolize both the allure and terror of the human psyche’s inner workings.
The front side depicts a traditionally attractive and friendly mermaid offering help to a struggling man, who is lost and drowning under the ocean’s surface. From the brand’s website: “You see an individual floating deep under the ocean's surface, ’sinking’ into his own thoughts. It appears that he is alone as sirens observe him from the distance. You also see a single, beautiful mermaid has revealed herself in front of him and is seemingly reaching her arms out to help him. This scene is representative of the feeling of ‘comfort’ that our intrusive thoughts can often bring us in their unwavering attempts to penetrate our minds. We experience these incredible triggers so often and for so long that they eventually do become familiar and comfortable thoughts.”
The back cover, however, reveals that the mermaid is actually a monstrous siren inhaling the man’s soul. Instead of a beautiful creature offering support, the siren shows her true form, illustrating the danger of succumbing to isolation instead of getting help. “Sometimes you feel like you are drowning and don’t have the energy to fight, because you are only human and cannot be strong all of the time. And that is often when our demons come to collect…[The siren] isn't actually helping the lost man, she is sucking his soul. The painful and scared look on his face says it all. Many of us who struggle with our mental health find ourselves preferring to be alone when we are triggered or overstimulated. We convince ourselves that no one around us can help us and we turn to our own dark thoughts for comfort. We think we are ‘processing,’ but if we are not careful, we just may end up spiraling further into our own MELANCHOLIA!”
Nevertheless, the palette description concludes on a positive and encouraging note, assuring the customer that it is totally acceptable to grapple with one’s mental health and not have perfect coping mechanisms. “These truths aren't always easy to confront or share with those around us. We are often told to just be ‘strong’ and not let our demons WIN. However, the notion that we just have to be stronger in hard times completely dismisses that many of us are in fact trying our hardest and sometimes the intrusive thoughts are just stronger. And you know what? That is OKAY! So if you are reading this and you are also struggling, just know that we see you and as long as you are trying your best, that is all that matters!” By creating a unique collection both in its utilization of mermaids as stand-ins for one’s inner demons, as well as general concept – most holiday collections emphasize joy – Meera Beauty Co. exhibits a rare perspective that sets it apart from many other beauty brands, mainstream or indie. While the shades and glitter textures may be similar to other mermaid-themed palettes, the overall tone and artwork offer a remarkably different take from the usual mermaid makeup narrative.
Scene from Hook
1991
Coney Island Mermaid Parade
2015-2019
Perhaps there is no better demonstration of the spirit of freedom and creativity embodied by mermaid makeup than at New York’s annual Coney Island Mermaid Parade. Part art celebration, part cosplay, the parade is billed as an event where “artistic New Yorkers find self-expression in public,” with attendees sporting looks that range from natural to outrageous and everything in between.
Photo credits:
1 - Robert Ullmann
2, 5, 6, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14 - Keith Perks
3 - Yana Paskova
4 - Glenn Belverio
8 - First Gen Fashion
13 - Eva Szombat