REFLECTIONS
SWIMMING UPSTREAM: THE STRUGGLE FOR DIVERSITY
In her 2017 work “Water Woman”, Kenyan artist Wangechi Mutu rejects Western mermaid iconography, instead representing a traditional East African folkloric creature known as a nguva. Her hair style and facial features, when combined with the use of dark bronze, upend conventional notions of beauty.
Given that two of the main components of contemporary mermaid makeup work either independently of skin tone (in the case of glitter) or formulated to suit a variety of skin colors (many prismatic and iridescent products), coupled with the fact that mermaids are imaginary and should not have any fixed, universal appearance, it stands to reason that makeup inspired by these creatures would be inclusive of all races, ages and genders. But there are very few mermaid-inspired makeup collections or objects that are produced by BIPOC-owned companies. Out of the 30-plus objects displayed in A Splash of Color, only 5 of them are from BIPOC-owned brands. More so than objects, inclusive representation is nearly non-existent – there are barely any images of BIPOC, fat, disabled, older, non-binary or male-presenting models in advertising campaigns for mermaid cosmetic products. Obviously the lack of diversity in mermaid makeup stems from the fact that historically, neither the cosmetics industry nor representation of mer-people have been inclusive. As noted in the general history section of this exhibition, despite the plethora of merfolk stories from indigenous and non-European cultures (1) that vary in their descriptions of mer-peoples’ appearance, there unfortunately remains a stubborn archetype in merfolk imagery: decidedly feminine beings who meet conventional (read: racist and ageist) beauty standards of being white, thin, and young, with long smooth hair and Anglicized facial features. (2) Both in makeup and more generally, there is a great absence of mermaids who appear older than 25, or even ones with short hair.
The backlash resulting from the casting of a Black actress for Disney’s live action The Little Mermaid in 2019 is just another example of the resistance to featuring a BIPOC mermaid in mainstream culture. And since the infancy of the modern cosmetics industry, it was a great struggle for many BIPOC entrepreneurs to succeed while most white-owned companies ignored the needs of their customers of color (and still do today). Tarte’s 2017 Be a Mermaid and Make Waves eyeshadow palette, for example, appeared to be intended for pale-skinned customers. As BIPOC and others who are underrepresented both in mermaid imagery and makeup campaigns and collections, it stands to reason that companies owned by these same people wouldn’t have much of an interest in creating mermaid-themed products; experiencing otherness and feeling left out isn’t very inspirational. But there is hope. The cosmetics landscape has changed drastically in the past 2-3 years both in terms of inclusion and perceptions of makeup’s purpose. While the industry is still not truly diverse, improvements in race and gender representation mean increased visibility for those that do not meet traditional beauty standards. Makeup companies, whether in good faith or not, are striving for inclusion in all areas and more BIPOC-owned companies (particularly smaller indie brands) are able to enter the cosmetics world. This indicates the gap could eventually be closed, with these businesses producing merfolk-themed makeup that speaks to everyone and is suitable for their needs. Additionally, the rise of experimental or “ugly” makeup signifies an opportunity for a more varied approach to mermaid-inspired makeup. On a broader scale, expanded recognition of and support for LGBTQ+/BIPOC contributions across all fields, especially history, pop culture and art, means that more diverse representations of mer-people will conceivably be as common as the imagery that has dominated the past several hundred years.
1. See Scaled for Success: The Internationalization of the Mermaid edited by Philip Hayward, 2018.
2. It should be noted that the vast majority of mermen are also represented as embodying traditional male beauty standards.
Many makeup aficionados felt that the 2016-2017 mermaid trend dictated a rather juvenile aesthetic consisting of glitter and iridescence without much else, leaving a seemingly indelible definition of mermaid makeup as mere sparkle in its wake. Mermaid and unicorn makeup had seemingly become synonymous with uninspired prismatic packaging or amateur, unpolished looks involving messily applied glitter and highlighter. Even if this was objectively true, iridescence and glitter make just as much sense for mermaid makeup as shades of blue and green. It can be argued that iridescence signifies fish scales, which would be appropriate for makeup inspired by half-piscine creatures (and, incidentally, were used in commercial cosmetic formulas at least as early as the 1960s). The attraction to glitter’s sheen could refer to humans’ biological need to be near a source of water. Thus, the two perceived pillars of the trend were actually pertinent to mermaids.
But this is a moot point as examples of mermaid makeup that does not involve prismatic qualities or glitter abound in pop culture and high fashion regardless. One could argue that most of these came before the fad arrived, but there are plenty of instances during and after that demonstrate the mermaid craze of 2016/2017 was not as childlike or one-note as it seemed. A look at recent fashion shows, along with portrayals in film and television, reveal a range of sophisticated makeup styles – subtle aqua eyeshadow, bare-faced minimalism, bold red lips and makeup that incorporates special effects are all significant contributions to the concept of mermaid-inspired makeup during the past few decades. Additionally, while some outlandish looks circulating on social media are either reflective of the overall Instagram makeup aesthetic or reserved for Halloween and other costumed occasions, more understated makeup such as the “mermaid tears” trend or Lisa Eldridge’s “metallic mermaid” tutorial allow for a touch of mermaid magic without the skill or effort required by complicated looks. Green and blue shades are also more commonplace among brand offerings than ever before, with high-end companies like Chantecaille producing wearable and luxurious ocean hues fully intended for adult clientele. One may argue these examples are not appropriate for daytime or office work, but in terms of mermaid makeup they offer more thoughtful and mature alternatives to a shower of random glitter and haphazardly scattered rainbow hues.
FIN
Mermaid-themed makeup epitomizes fantasy and wonder by expressing mermaids’ magical abilities and multi-faceted nature. Styles can be just as deep and full of mystery as the ocean itself, or they can focus on just one characteristic of mermaids that speaks to the wearer. As A Splash of Color demonstrates, the possibilities for mermaid-themed cosmetic packaging and looks are seemingly endless. Additionally, mermaid makeup encourages creativity and artistic expression more so than other cosmetic styles. Because mermaids aren’t real, one has considerable flexibility creating a look based on them. As YouTuber Roxette Arisa and Ipsy creator Gabriel Zamora note, “[Mermaid and unicorn makeup is] so different than any other trends we've seen because it wasn't made popular on the notion of being ‘perfect,’…I think it's so popular because it has no set look. [It’s] left for interpretation by every person.”
While inclusion and representation still need to be addressed in both mermaid iconography and makeup collections, more progressive perceptions of mermaids and what they represent, along with the efforts of makeup companies and consumers alike, suggest a promising outlook for diversity.